Techniques

Climbing and mountaineering knots and rescue techniques

Overhand knot
This is the simpelest knot to make a loop in the rope. The overhand knkot is also used to connect two ropes of equel diameter together for example for abseiling.

Eigth knot
This knot can be used in combination with a triple action karabiner to indirectly attatch yourself to the rope (when on a glacier). This knot can also be used to join two ropes together although the knot is quite a bit larger than the overhand knot

Retreaded eigth knot
This is the best knot to directly attacht your harness to the rope it is easy to tie and easy to see if it is tied correctly. can also be used to attach the rope securly to an achor point.

Munter hitch
The munter hitch can be used to belay someone, it is often used in alpine senarios. This hitch is always used in combination with a HMS carabiner, a pear shaped carabiner, to alow for enough space for the knot.

Clove hitch
The clove hitch is the ideal knot to make a personal anchor. This is due to the fact that it is easy to tie and that the length of the rope to the knot is easily adjustable without the need to open the carabiner.

Garda hitch
The garda hitch is an easy wat to make an autoblocking pulley. The rope can be pulled trough only in one direction, the other direction blocks. For this hitch two identical carabiners must be used. To replace this knot modern devices such as a micro traxtion can also be used.

Anchor hitch and prusik
The anchor hitch is an easy wat to attach a secondary rope to an object or the main rope. A variation of the anchor hitch is the prusik, it is tied the same way as the anchor hitch but with two or more wraps around the main rope. The prusik is a friction hitch which means that it grabs the rope and can be used as a movable knot.

overhand knot eight knot retreaded eight knot munter hitch clove hitch garda hitch anchor hitch
Above is the anchor hitch and below the continuation into the prusik hitch.
prusik

Rescue techniques

Seilrolle
When someone falls int a crevasse while traversing a glacier you need to rescue them from there. The seilrolle is, besides just pulling, the most effiecient technique. It all starts with the making of a anchor point, when in snow a snow anchor can be made using an ice axe and when on ice an anchor can be built using icescrews. After this the weight can be transferred to the anchor point. Now the second person can then come forward and perform the rescue with the help of multiple knots from above as seen in the video below.

Prusiking and munchhausen
When fallen into a crevasse or the need to ascend a hanging rope the prusik method can be used. this method uses the prusik hitch twice, once to attach to your harness and hthe rope and once as footrest to stand up in. Using this it is possible to ascend the rope however, it is usually not possible to fully get out of a crevasse due to the the usually overhanging edge or because the rope is cutting into the snow. When this happens a second technique called munchhausen can be used, this uses the garda hitch or a device similar to a microtraxtion to pull yourself over the edge, a full self rescue can be seen in the video below.